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Programming a DRAG Controller
MagneShock™ designs, tests, and manufactures active damping
suspension systems using Magneto-Rheological (MR) technology.
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- Identify all of the cables and their corresponding connections located on the controller and display.
- Do not plug in components when the controller is powered.
- The Controller is fused (4 amp). Requires 12 or 16-volt supply (max 2 amp) and should
be activated with the ignition switch or from an accessory power wire.
- Securely route shock cables away from moving parts and exhaust components.
- Securely mount Controller box and be certain it is grounded to the chassis.
- The Programmer box need not be mounted and need not be grounded.
It is not required for operation - only for Progamming the Controller and seeing programmed values.
Using the PROGRAMMER (Display box)
Mode is changed by the Display-On-Off button.
Different “Parameters” are selected & changes are SAVED by the Edit/Save button.
You move from one “value” to another on the WHEEL LEDs (or sometimes view the different SETUPs) by the CW-CCWswitch.
You make “values” higher or lower with the STIFF-SOFT switch.
You can define the Force-Velocity curve of each shock, in each SETUP,
at THREE (3) different Velocities (in rebound & compression): 0 (ZERO velocity -
the force required to start the shock moving), 1 inches/second & 3 inches/second.
There are 8 SETUPSs (#0, #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6 & #7): Each contains all the
Rebound & Compression damping settings at all 3 different velocities for all 4 shocks
(displayed on the WHEEL LEDs) and the timer duration.
OFF Mode (“F”):
When first powered up an “F” (display oFf) appears in on the bottom center
COMMAND LED & the upper center SETUP LED will display “0, 1 or 4” depending
on the position of the SELECTOR switch (“0” if cable is disconnected).
NO other LEDs light up - nobody can see your settings unless you want them to.
Pressing the Display-On-Off button will cycle through “A” (Automatic), “U” (User) &
“E” (Edit) & then restart at “F”.
NOTE: the Controller is ALWAYS functional - you just can see much in this mode.
AUTOMATIC Mode (“A”):
This can be used to “SIMULATE” an actual race (and verify switching & damping forces on a dyno).
To SEE settings: press Display-On-Off again - it goes to Automatic mode, “A” displays in the COMMAND LED.
Only the “0” velocity damping settings display in WHEEL LEDs.
If the SELECTOR switch is connected, it will display the starting SETUP for each position (#0,#1, or #4). CW-CCW is NOT active.
If the SELECTOR switch is on BURNOUT, only SETUP “0” is displayed
If the SELECTOR switch is on Race-1 it will first display the starting SETUP “1”.
If, at this point, you give it a LAUNCH signal the SETUP #1TIMER starts & shifts to SETUP #2 - the TIMER runs & shifts to SETUP #3.
Its timer will start & then shift to SETUP #7 when it receives the CHUTE-PULLED signal or when it times out - whichever comes first.
It will then stay in SETUP “7” (SHUT-OFF/Braking) until you move the SELECTOR switch or turn off power to the Controller.
Race-2 is similar except it starts in #4, shifts to #5, then to #6 & finally to #7 (SHUT-OFF is the same for both Race-1 & Race-1).
Pressing Edit/Save will cycle through the 3 velocities and the timer setting (“H”=Hold time).
If the SELECTOR switch is NOT connected it will be the same as USER Mode.
USER Mode (“U”):
Used to SEE all SETUP settings or for testing a a shock on the dyno. It IGNORES the SELECTOR switch, LAUNCH & CHUTE-PULLED signals.
Press Display-On-Off again - it goes to USER mode, “U” displays in the COMMAND LED,, the CW-CCW is active & you can move it to see all SETUPs
(The SELECTOR switch will be ignored if connected. You cannot see parameters “L” & “P” in this mode).
Velocity “0” is 1st displayed. Pressing Edit/Save cycles through the 3 velocities (“0”, “1” & “3”) &e the timer setting (“H”=Hold time).
EDIT Mode (“E”);
To Edit damping, timing & the other special parameters.
Press Display-On-Off again - the COMMAND LED displays an “E”. The SETUP LED will initially display SETUP “0”.
You can go to any desired SETUP (#1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6 or #7, plus the “L” and the “P” parameters with the CW-CCW switch.
It will NOT cycle - you can move forward & backward between them.
To Edit/Change DAMPING:
Once you have selected the SETUP with CW-CCW: Pressing Edit/Save again will allow you to actually edit the selected SETUP.
The COMMAND LED will now alternately flash between “E” and “0” (the first velocity). & ONE of the 8 WHEEL LEDS will flash.
The alternating “0” in the COMMAND LED is the first editable Velocity (the numbers on the WHEEL LEDs are the respective forces required to start the
shock moving - ZERO velocity).
Now you can use the CW-CCW switch to move the “flashing” to the WHEEL’s and Rebound or Compression that you want to edit.
Then, move the STIFF-SOFT switch up or down to get the actual damping force you desire at ZERO-velocity.
NOTE: A displayed number without a decimal point it has an “implied extra ZERO”.
Example.: Damping “12.” = 12.(0) = 12 lb, whereas “12” = 12(0) = 120 lb
You can then move to any other WHEEL’s Rebound or Compression values to change that damping at ZERO-velocity.
To change other velocities & TIMING:
Each time you press Edit/Save the COMMAND LED will cycle through “0”, “1”, “3” (velocities), “H” (timer Hold
time) and then start over at “0” (alternately flashing with “E”).
You can use the CW-CCW & the STIFF-SOFT switches to edit all the damping values in each velocity.
When you select the TIMER, “d” will display in the COMMAND LED ” (alternately flashing with “E”) & TIMES will display only in the FL WHEEL
LEDs (there is only one TIME for each 4-wheel SETUP). The total TIMER range is from 0.010 to 99.990 seconds.
The time is displayed in TWO WHEEL LEDs. The top number is WHOLE Seconds and ends with a decimal point.
The two together are the whole “Hold time”. The bottom number is MILLISECONDS (changeable in Hundredths of a second).
Example: TOP number “01.” = 01.(0) = 1. Total Time OR: TOP number “04.” = 04.(0) = 4. Total Time
LOWER number “54” = .55(0) = 550 =1.550 sec. LOWER number “07” = .07(0) = 070 =4.070 sec.
1. The TIMER is not used (ignored) in SETUP #0 (BURNOUT) - it remains in this SETUP as long as the SELECTOR switch is set to “BURNOUT”.
2. When in Race-1 (or Race-2) it starts in SETUP #1 (or #4). The timer does NOT start until it gets the LAUNCH signal.
3. The Computer looks for the timer to end when in SETUP #1 or 2 (and in 4 or 5). When it ends, it “shifts” to the next SETUP.
4. When in #3 (or #6) is is looking for the CHUTE-PULLED signal to shift to #7 (SHUT-OFF/Braking) for the end of each run.
5. However; if #3 (or #6) times out, it will “shift to SETUP #7 (Shutoff) even if it did not receive the CHUTE-PULLED signal.
6. Thus, the TIMER also serves as a SAFETY! If it doesn’t receive a signal by the time specified it “shifts” to SETUP #7 anyway.
So, it is “prudent” to set the #3 & #6 timers to slightly later than the time anticipated so that everything will still work pretty well
even if for some reason it does not gets its CHUTE-PULLED signal.
7. The CHUTE-PULLED signal overrides any other SETUP - it will go to SETUP #7 whenever it gets this signal.
To SAVE your changes:
At ANY time, you can PRESS & HOLD Edit/Save for about TWO SECONDS until the COMMAND LED changes to “S” for SAVE.
When you release the button, ALL numbers flash to indicate you have SAVED any changes made in this SETUP (or in the parameters).
It will NOT exit the EDIT mode after a SAVE - you may continue to make changes (& SAVE them if desired) to this SETUP (only).
NOTE: If you do not SAVE the data, any settings you have input will stay ”active” until you get OUT of the EDIT Mode or turn the system power off.
In either case, it will LOSE your changes & go back to the last “SAVED” settings.
To EXIT the EDIT mode:
At any time, you can simply press the Display-On-Off button to EXIT the EDIT mode.
Any changes made & NOT SAVED will be LOST! Anything you previously SAVED will still be there.
To Edit/Change “L” (Lowest-Limits of damping):
When you 1st enter the EDIT mode, use the CW-CCW switch to go past SETUP #7, to “L”.
(Normally, you don’t have to change these numbers - only if you use special, usually very stiff, shocks.)
[If already in EDIT mode: Press Display-On-Off to exit & re-enter EDIT mode (COMMAND LED displays “E”), use CW-CCW to select “L”]
Now, pressing Edit/Save again will allow you to actually EDIT the “Lowest-Limits” for each shock.
It will display special numbers in the same WHEEL LEDS that represent each shock.
These numbers are unique to each TYPE of shock (the Controller uses them to determine the Lowest-Limits of damping force).
Each MagneShock comes with these values marked on it. Controllers come preset from the factory for the most common shocks.
NOTE: A displayed number without a decimal point it has an “implied extra ZERO”.
Example.: Number “75.” = 75.(0) = 75, whereas “12” = 12(0) = 120
The 1st number is lowest & goes in the top WHEEL LED (Rebound position) & the 2nd lower number goes in the bottom WHEEL LED (compression position).
To Edit/Change “P” (Position of Rebound & Compression BUMP-STOPS):
When you 1st enter the EDIT mode, use the CW-CCW switch to go past “L” to “P”.
These are the positions where the shock goes to FULL STIFF - to reduce the chance, & the bad effects, of Bottoming & Topping out.
These numbers also display in the two WHEEL LEDs for each shock and they can be set for each shock individually.
The upper WHEEL LED is for Rebound (largest), which is the point where it goes to FULL STIFF to help prevent topping out the shock/suspension.
The lower WHEEL LED is for Compression (smallest), the point where it goes to FULL STIFF to help prevent bottoming out the shock/suspension.
To set the Rebound-Bump-Stop: You must know the shock’s STROKE:
(measure the length/amount of rod showing at full extension - “metal-to-metal” - as if any rubber bumpers are not there).
Example: lets assume that your shock has 6.1” of stroke and you want the Controller to go to FULL STIFF at ½” before it tops out:
You set the UPPER WHEEL LED to 5.6” (6.1” -0.5”). It is measured in 1/10” increments.
When there is 5.6” (or more) of rod showing (0.5” or less of travel remaining) the damping will go to FULL STIFF.
To set the Compression-Bump-Stop:
If you want the Controller to go to FULL STIFF at 1.2” before it bottoms-out, you set the LOWER WHEEL LED to 1.2” (also 1/10” increments).
Note: If your shock has a rubber bumper you could set shock so it goes stiff before or after bumper contact.
When there is 1.2” (or less) of rod showing the Controller will turn the damping to be FULL STIFF.
You can SAVE any changes now: PRESS & HOLD Edit/Save for about TWO SECONDS. (See “To SAVE your changes;” above)
Use of external “SELECTOR” switch
When: 1. the SELECTOR switch is wired,
2. the cable connected and
3. none of the circuits are closed (Race-1 position does NOT connect to ground);
It will put the Controller in “SETUP #1” - to start a race (and it will display SETUP “1” if the Programmer is connected).
Other wires in the cable represent the folowing circuits:
BURNOUT position of the SELECTOR switch,
RACE-2 position of the SELECTOR switch,
LAUNCH signal wire (this signal Starts the 1st (or 4th) SETUP timer going in a race),
CHUTE-PULLED signal wire (this signal calls the SHUT-OFF/Braking SETUP (#7),
Battery Voltage wire (+12 or 16VDC) and
+5VDC wire (used internally).
You can use these +12 & +5 Volt wires for LOW drain relays you may be using for other functions.
If the BURNOUT circuit is closed to Ground - SETUP #0 (Launch #1) will be called (and displayed if the Programmer is connected).
If the Race-2 circuit is closed to Ground - SETUP #4 (Launch #2) will be called FIRST (& displayed if the Programmer is connected).