1893 Gainsborough Dr., Atlanta, GA 30341        dick@magneshocks.com         Phone: 770-377-6430
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Getting Started
- Controller and Programmer contain sensitive electronics, Handle with Care!
- Identify all of the cables and their corresponding connections located on the controller and display.
- Do not plug in components when the controller is powered.
- The Controller is fused (4 amp), requires a 12 or 16-volt supply (max 3 amp) and preferably is activated by the
   ignition switch.
- Securely route shock cables away from moving parts and exhaust components.
- Securely mount Controller box and
be certain it is grounded to the chassis.
- The Programmer box need not be mounted and need not be grounded. 
   (It is not required for operation - only for Programming the Controller and seeing programmed values.)

The Controller has 50 “Pre-Programmed” Force-Velocity curves for Rebound AND another 50 for Compression
(giving you 2,500 possible combinations).
Each of these Curves is represented by a 1 or 2 cipher Code that is displayed in the Rebound and Compression LEDS for each shock.
The shape of each “curve” is PRE-SET (being programmed for damping values at 5 different piston velocities: 0, ½, 1, 3 & 7 inches per second).
The Controller gives linear interpolation between these velocities and the “slope” of the curve is fixed above 7in/s.
You can individually SELECT any of the 50 Rebound and any of the 50 Compression curves you desire for each shock
The curves you “Select” for each of your 4 shocks is called a SETUP. 
Then, you can program and save 5 different “4-shock” SETUPs.
Any of these SETUPs is instantly accessible, at any time, by use of a Remote Switch

Using the PROGRAMMER (Display box)
1.  Mode is changed by the Display-On-Off button.
2.  Different “Parameters” are selected & changes are
by the Edit/Save button.
3.  You move from one “value” to another (or sometimes 
     view the different
SETUPs) by the CW-CCWswitch.
4.  You make “values” higher or lower with the
Stiff-Soft switch.

There are 4 “Modes”.

All Programming is done in the “E” (Edit) Mode.

OFF Mode (“F”):
When first powered  up an “F”  appears in on the bottom center COMMAND LED (it means: display oFF) & the upper center SETUP LED will display “0” . 
OR: If the REMOTE cable is connected; it will display whatever
SETUP the switches are set to (0, 1, 2, 3 or 4).
NONE of the other LEDs light up - so nobody can see your settings unless you want them to.

If the Remote is NOT connected, moving the
CW-CCW switch will change the SETUP (but you can’t see anything else in this Mode).
Pressing the
Display-On-Off button will toggle through the MODES:  “A” (Automatic), “U” (User) & “E” (Edit) & then restart at “F”.

only SEE the damping settings: Press Display-On-Off - it goes to Automatic mode & “A” displays in the COMMAND
The code for all 8 of the Rebound & Compression curve settings (2 for each of the 4 shocks) will display in this Mode.
Otherwise it is the same as the “
F” Mode. 

REMOTE cable IS connected:        Displays the
SETUP selected on the Remote switch and IGNORES everything
                                                                 except   the
Display-On-Off button.
REMOTE cable NOT connected:   The
CW-CCW switch will be active - you can move it to see all 5 of the SETUPs.
                                                                 However, it will ignore the
Edit/Save button.

USER Mode (“U”):
To SEE settings:  Press
Display-On-Off again - it goes to  User mode, “U” displays in the COMMAND LED,
                                the external switches are overridden, the
CW-CCW is active & you can move it to see all SETUPs.
Velocity “
0” is first displayed.   Pressing Edit/Save will toggle through all the velocities.
(This is the same as the Automatic Mode if a REMOTE SWITCH is not connected).

EDIT Mode (“E”);
To Edit damping (& other special parameters);    Press
Display-On-Off again - the COMMAND LED displays an “E”.
SETUP LED initially displays a “0” - this represents SETUP #0 (there are 5 total: #0, #1, #2, #3 & #4; + “L” & “P”). 
You can change to any
SETUP, plus the “L” and the “P” parameters (explained later) with the CW-CCW switch.

It will NOT toggle:   It will display “
0”, “1”, “2”, “3”, “4”, “L” & “P”.  You can move forward & backward between them.
EDITs are made in REAL-TIME: they will be “active”, even if you are on the track or RACING. 
             But, you must
SAVE to keep them.

To Edit/Change DAMPING:
First; use the CW-CCW switch to select the SETUP you desire (#0 to #4) - it will display in the SETUP LED.
Now, pressing
Edit/Save again will allow you to actually edit the SELECTED SETUP.
COMMAND LED will now alternately flash between “E” and “0” (or whichever SETUP# you selected).
And, ONE of the eight “Wheel” LEDS will flash - this is the one you can change.

The alternating “0” in the COMMAND LED is the first editable Velocity (the numbers on the “wheel” LEDs are the respective forces required to start the shock moving - at ZERO velocity).
Use the
CW-CCW switch to move the “flashing” to the Wheel’s Rebound or Compression that you want to edit.
Then, move the
Stiff/Soft switch up or down to get the actual damping force you desire at ZERO-velocity.
   NOTE:       A displayed number without a decimal point has an IMPLIED extra ZERO
   Example:   Damping 
12. = 12.(0) = 12 lbs,  whereas 12 = 12(0) = 120 lbs.

You can then move to any other Wheel’s Rebound or Compression values to change that damping at ZERO-velocity.

To change other velocities:
Each time you press
Edit/Save it will toggle through “0”, “H”, “1”, “3”, “7” and then start over at “0”. 
You can use the
CW-CCW & the Stiff/Soft switches to edit all the damping values in this velocity (and this SETUP).

To SAVE your changes:
At ANY time,  PRESS & HOLD Edit/Save for about TWO SECONDS until the COMMAND LED changes to “S
- for

When you release the button, ALL numbers flash to indicate you have
SAVED any changes made in this SETUP
(or in the parameters).
It will NOT exit the
EDIT mode after a SAVE - you may continue to make changes (& SAVE them as you go along - if
you want to) to this
SETUP (only).

NOTE: If you do not SAVE the data, any settings you have input will stay active
(if you are on the track the MagnShocks will be whatever it shows)
until you get OUT of the EDIT Mode
or turn the system (ignition key) off. 
In either case, it will drop your changes & go back to the last “SAVED” settings.

To EXIT the EDIT mode:
At any time, you can simply press the
Display-On-Off button to EXIT the EDIT mode.
Anything you
SAVED previously will be SAVED
Any changes made & NOT
SAVED will be gone.  It will only change whatever you SAVED.

To Edit/Change L (Lowest-Limits of damping):      ONLY needed for Special shocks
When in the EDIT mode you can move the CW-CCW switch to go past “4” (the last SETUP) to “L”. 
L" is ONLY needed for Special shocks.
Now, pressing
Edit/Save again will allow you to actually edit the Lowest-Limits for each shock.
It will display special numbers in the same LEDS that represent each shock.
These numbers are unique to each TYPE of shock (the Controller uses them to control the Lowest-Limits of damping).
Each MagneShock comes with these values marked on it. 
Controllers come preset from the factory for the most common shocks. 
Normally, you don’t have to change these numbers - only if you use special, usually very stiff, shocks.

The 1st number is highest & goes in the top LED (Rebound position) & the 2nd number (which is lower) goes in the bottom LED (Compression position).

To Edit/ChangeP (Position of Rebound & Compression BUMP-STOPS):
Moving the CW-CCW switch up, you pass “L” to “P” -  the Positions for the Rebound & Compression BUMP-STOPS. 
These are the actual rod positions where the shock goes to FULL STIFF.
This is to reduce the chance & the bad effects of Bottoming & Topping out the shocks/suspension.
These numbers also display in the two LEDs for each shock and they can be set for each shock individually. 
The upper LED is for Rebound (largest), which is the point where it goes to full stiff to help prevent topping out the shock/suspension.
The lower LED is for Compression (smallest), the point where it goes to full stiff to help prevent bottoming out the shock/suspension.
(if you don't want BUMP-STOPS, simply set the top one to a number higher than the stroke & the lower one to ZERO)

To set the Rebound-Bump-Stop: You must know the shock’s STROKE:
(measure the length/amount of rod showing at full extension - “metal-to-metal” - as if any rubber bumpers are not there). 
Example:  lets assume that your shock has 6.1” of stroke and you want the Controller to go to FULL STIFF at 1” before it tops out:
You set the UPPER LED to 5.1” (6.1” -1.0”).  It is measured in 1/10” increments. 
When there is 5.1” (or more) of rod showing (1.0” or less of travel remaining) the damping will be at FULL STIFF.

To set the Compression-Bump-Stop:
If you want the Controller to go to FULL STIFF at ½” before it bottoms-out, you set the LOWER LED to 0.5”  (also 1/10” increments).
Note:  If your shock has a rubber bumper you could set shock so it goes stiff before or after bumper contact. 
When there is 0.5” (or less) of rod showing (extended) the Controller will turn the damping to be FULL STIFF.

You can
SAVE any changes now:
Edit/Save for about TWO SECONDS.  (See “To SAVE your changes;” above)
Use of external “Remote-Switch” 
When:   1. the Remote-Switch is wired,
2. the cable connected and
3. none of the circuits are closed;
It will put the Controller in “
SETUP #0”    (and it will display SETUP "0" if the Programmer is connected). 

The 4 other circuits in the cable represent “
SETUPs” number #1 through #4.
If one of these circuits is closed - that “
SETUP” will be instantly called (and displayed if the Programmer is connected).
If you have a
2-position Remote Bat-handle switch:
You can connect any one of “
SETUPs” #1 to #4 to the switch.  
When OFF it will call “
SETUP #0” and when ON it will call whichever “SETUP” you are connected to. 
OR: You can connect any two of the
SETUPs - then it will call one or the other.          
Connect Ground to Ground.
If you have a
5-position Remote Rotary switch:
You only connect
SETUPs #1 through #4 to the switch circuits
and then Ground to Ground.. 
Do NOT connect any wires to the 1st position - it is always OFF & it will call “
SETUP #0”.  
Ignore & insulate the extra wires.
Connect #1 to #4 to the 2nd through 5th position so the switch will call those SETUPs when clicked to those positions.


                                                   Dampers covered under US Patents 6,543,589 and 5,277,281 and 4,877,699 and 5,878,851 and 6,095,48
Programming a Oval-track / Road-Race Controller
this is RDS - not SDS
MagneShock™ designs, tests, and manufactures active damping
suspension systems using Magneto-Rheological (MR) technology.
Contact us today to improve your product.
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